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Argentina - Buenos Aires - Valdes - Ushuaia - Andean Patagonia - Northwest
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Direct international flight. Night on board, arrival the following day.
When you land a private transfer takes you to the heart of the historic San Telmo neighbourhood, with its pretty cobbled streets where you stay for two nights. Your art hotel is built around the Pasaje Belgrano, a former covered shopping arcade that played a part in the capital’s history. The property has preserved the best of the heritage from its historic architecture. It combines high ceilings, parquet floors and columns with contemporary Argentinian art. Paintings and sculptures abound and a mural of Carlos Gardel, the local tango hero, can even be found on the roof. This rooftop terrace is an ideal spot to relax with a drink at the end of the day, far from the bustle of the city. In the restaurant they serve delicious fusion food, uniting Argentina, Peru and Japan on the same menu.
You have two days to get a feel for the Argentine capital. In the morning, take your time over a cortado (macchiato) and a medialuna (Argentinian croissant), before strolling through the various barrios, each with its own distinct personality. Recoleta is an elegant neighbourhood where Belle Epoque buildings stand alongside modern towers, separated from the Río de la Plata by the tracks from Retiro station. Microcentro is where walkers and busy workers bustle together, just steps from the presidential palace and the iconic Plaza de Mayo, where popular struggles are voiced in demonstrations. La Boca and its photogenic Caminito is full of brightly coloured houses and the sounds of tango. It is said to be the birthplace of Argentina in the 16th century. Puerto Madero is the newest district, with its renovated industrial docks, endless towers and popular restaurants. Trendy Palermo, finally, has three different sides: Viejo, Hollywood and Soho. Restaurants, bars, designer boutiques and nightclubs keep it buzzing day and night, and it is much loved by the cream of Porteña society. Join the fashion and film elite and like other Porteños, enjoy a craft beer or a cocktail in an electrifying atmosphere.
Things to see and experience - Stop for a coffee at Gran Cafe Tortoni, a true institution in the heart of Buenos Aires - browse the San Telmo market on Sundays and its mix of antiques and crafts - sit on a bench in one of Palermo’s parks and watch the dog walkers, sometimes harnessed to twenty four-legged friends - buy a book in a historic theatre converted into a bookshop - try a delicious bife de lomo (beef tenderloin) or sample mollejas (grilled sweetbreads) at one of Buenos Aires’ excellent parrillas - visit the National Museum of Fine Arts, where Renoir, Rodin and Degas share the walls with talented Argentinian artists - spend an evening in a traditional milonga, a meeting place and stage for tango dancers.
Optional extra -A stroll through Buenos Aires with an expat as your guide.
Private transfer to the airport and flight to Trelew, in Atlantic Patagonia. Pick up your rental car and drive to Puerto Piramides, the only village on the Valdes Peninsula, which looks out over the waters of Golfo Nuevo. A few miles from the village is Mirador Loberia, a viewpoint from where you can spot sea lions. A short path leads to the viewpoint, where you have a spectacular 180 degree view over the waters of Golfo Nuevo and the sea lion colony.
Stay for two nights in a small guesthouse where the focus is on simplicity and comfort and guests are afforded a warm welcome. The furniture and decks were specially designed and made for the guesthouse, using wood from trees that had fallen naturally in the Andes. We applaud the property’s commitment to sustainability, the impeccable service and the exceptional homemade breakfast.
The Valdes Peninsula is in the heart of Atlantic Patagonia and a site of global importance for the conservation of marine mammals. Listed as a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site, its waters are where endangered North Atlantic right whales, penguins, orcas, sea lions and elephant seals come to breed. You can explore it at your own pace while strolling through the Punta Norte Nature Reserve, which is home to numerous birds and animals such as rheas, maras and guanacos.
On your schedule - Zodiac boat tour in Golfo Nuevo to get up close to the southern right whales that come to give birth along the peninsula.
Optional extra - Diving with sea lions in the Valdes Peninsula.
Before leaving the Valdes Peninsula, it’s worth driving along the coast to see the landmarks. The first stop is at the Punta Delgada lighthouse, in the south-west of the peninsula. This spot is known for its colonies of elephant seals and sea lions, which can often be seen basking on the beaches. From the "faro", you have a 360 degree view of the Atlantic and the coastline. The next stop is at Caleta Valdés, a 35 km (22 mile) strip of land in constant motion. Here you walk along the Punta Cantor walkways, which offer a unique view of the sea lions and elephant seals below.
On your schedule - Tour of Estancia San Lorenzo, which is home to the largest colony of Magellanic penguins on the peninsula and guarantees an exclusive and intimate experience for visitors. On the Estancia’s private beach, you can get up close to a colony of penguins that live there!
Next, you head to the south of Golfo Nuevo and Gaiman, a small village on the banks of the Chubut River. Gaiman is one of the last Welsh strongholds in Argentina. A significant number of immigrants from Wales settled in the region in the 19th century. Stay for one night at an old posada with a few intimate rooms. The atmosphere here blends the charming rustic feel of a country house with the warmth of a nature retreat. Get back to basics with a cosy fireplace, a friendly breakfast, and, when it's warm, a dip in the pool.
Return drive to Trelew to return the rental car to the airport. Flight to Ushuaia, in Tierra del Fuego. Pick up a new vehicle and stay for two nights on a hill overlooking the Beagle Channel. The house is built in the style of typical local chalet with an atmosphere to match. There is polished wood, wool and large windows to gaze out from. Because, while a cosy interior is important, you come here for this unforgettable landscape of water, rocks and wind. Your room, comfortable and reassuring with its familiar furnishings, is welcoming and simple. The chef serves dishes from around the world made with carefully selected ingredients. The food is hearty and full of flavour. The local wines pair with it exceptionally well.
Sitting on the Beagle Channel, Ushuaia is the emblem of the far south. It is famous for being the southernmost city in the world. While it is a pleasant little town, its main interest is as the gateway to Tierra del Fuego National Park, a iconic natural paradise shared by Argentina and Chile.
On your schedule - A cruise on the Beagle Channel, which connects the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Follow the route of the great Antarctic expeditions as you sail through the narrow waterway. Highlights include beautiful views of Ushuaia Bay and sailing among the Bridges Islands to spot the very rare plants that grow only in this part of the world. Then comes the island of birds, home to Magellanic and Imperial cormorants, and finally "Les Eclaireurs" lighthouse in the archipelago of the same name, where the Monte Cervantes ship ran aground in 1930. Return to Ushuaia via Paso Chico.
Not to be missed - Tierra del Fuego National Park, easily accessible by car. The end of the world is right here. The park has lots of trails that are all very well marked so there are plenty of hikes of varying lengths and levels. They take you through the heart of the Patagonian forest, over rocks and along beaches. You come across beavers, red foxes, seabirds, dams, and the Río Pipo. As well as the national park, be sure to visit Fagnano and Escondido Lakes, which can be reached via Garibaldi Pass, about 100 km (62 miles) from Ushuaia. These vast deep blue inland seas contrast with the starkness of the surrounding landscapes and the snow-capped peaks of the last foothills of the Andes.
Return the vehicle and flight to El Calafate, the gateway to Los Glaciares National Park. Pick up your new rental car at the airport and stay for three nights on the shores of Lake Argentino, in a charming property with the feel of an extra large mountain chalet. The rooms and the common areas feature the raw look of exposed stone softened by the warmth of wood throughout. While all the rooms face the lake, you truly feel its vastness from the lounge, with its picture windows stretching from floor to ceiling. And immersed in the hot tub, you experience the beauty of the landscape with all your senses.
With your car, you are free to explore Los Glaciares National Park, home to the famous Perito Moreno glacier. A symbol of the park and a natural wonder, this immense glacier, with walls up to 60 metres (196 feet) high, stretches for 5 km (3 miles) along Lake Argentino. The sight of it takes your breath away. Through the forest, you walk along walkways that offer superb views of the glacier. Lunch is included: a typical Argentine picnic, or picada, of bread, cheese and cold meats. This kind of meal where everyone eats together is very popular in Argentina. Nibble away, try a bit of everything and above all, enjoy the view.
On your schedule - Cruise to the foot of the Perito Moreno glacier. The face of the Perito Moreno Glacier stretches for 4 km (2.5 miles) as a sheer ice cliff rising from the water, reaching a height of 170 metres (557 feet). Over half of it is submerged and the rest is above the surface. The glacier is accessible by road from El Calafate. The round trip is just over 150 km (93 miles). Standing in front of it leaves you speechless. With its size, smoothness, and its "assertiveness", this glacier has a certain classic quality, a poise that makes it one of the best of its kind. Perito Moreno is to glaciers what Notre-Dame is to cathedrals Here again, you board a catamaran to see it up close.
Optional extra - Horse riding excursion around Lake Argentino.
Things to do - Explore Los Glaciares National Park at your own pace. Inside the park, Lake Roca forms the southern arm of Lake Argentino. The trail that leads there is worth the detour alone, surrounded by a backdrop of majestic peaks and forests of lengas and ñires. The area is ideal for trekking on foot or on horseback, as well as for birdwatching, trying to spot condors, Darwin’s rhea or the Magellanic oystercatcher. The more adventurous among you can set out to conquer Cerro Cristal, a 1,286 metre (4,219 feet) peak that, on a clear day, offers breathtaking views of Perito Moreno and Torres del Paine.
On your schedule - An asado at a traditional estancia. Your lunch is booked at a traditional estancia nestled in the heart of Los Glaciares National Park. In the background, the Cordon de los Cristales unfold, and below it lakes and steppes, where horses gallop. In this majestic setting, you are invited to share an asado, Argentina’s iconic dish. These barbecues are social events that are raised to an art form by some. On the grill you’ll find beef, of course, roasted lamb, and the traditional blood sausage and chorizo (which is not spicy). And in these surroundings, how could you resist an enjoyable post-meal stroll.
Private transfer to the airport, flight to Buenos Aires, then flight to Salta in the heart of the Andes. Another private transfer and stay for one night in the heart of the city, at a charming colonial-style hotel dating from the early 20th century. Its location is perfect, on one of the town's iconic streets, just 50 metres (164 feet) from the main square and close to everything you need: restaurants, craft shops, wine cellars and more. The hotel has combined the charm of the old with modern comfort and carefully decorated rooms. And there’s a swimming pool too. Salta la Linda as it is known has a fine collection of preserved historic buildings. Take a walk and visit the Cabildo (the colonial town hall), the splendid 16th century San Bernardo Convent, the Basilica and Convent of San Francisco and the craft market.
Optional extras - Walking tour of Salta la Linda’s highlights with a private guide; dinner in a traditional peña.
Pick up the rental car and head south. On the way, you cross Quebrada de las Conchas, a gorge featuring massive red sandstone formations shaped by the water and wind over time. Unsurprisingly it’s a UNESCO natural heritage site. Arrive in the charming small town of Cafayate, surrounded by vineyards and archaeological remains. Besides its five-aisled cathedral and its bodegas (wine cellars), it is much loved for its cool patios, delightfully shaded by vine leaves.
Stay for one night just outside the city, at the foot of San Isidro Hill. In the heart of a vast vineyard, this charming property offers guests the rustic comfort of a well-kept hacienda. The single-storey buildings form a pleasant courtyard, which is intimate yet open to the surrounding mountains. The peaceful garden has a pool that's perfect for cooling off while looking out over the Andes. The restaurant is supplied with produce from the hotel’s vegetable garden.
Worth seeing nearby - Just under an hour’s drive from your accommodation are the ruins of the Inca city of Quilmes, perched 1,855 metres (6,085 feet) above sea level. In it’s day, 3,000 people lived in this fortified town. These days, although only 20% of the site has been restored, you can make out the layout of the old houses from the ruins. From the top of the two fortresses, there is a breathtaking view of the valley and the Andes. Be sure to visit the museum at the entrance to the site, which is very informative.
Optional extras - Bodega Domingo Molina tour with wine tasting; horseback ride through the heart of the Calchaquí Valleys, tour of a rancho and wine tasting.
Head back towards Salta and spend the night in a family-run finca at the foot of the Andes. The architecture reflects the traditional houses of northwest Argentina, while the atmosphere has a very personal feel. The owners have put a lot of themselves into the place. The rooms and the lounge are dotted with travel mementos, alongside some of the typical features of casas de campo. From the pool to the garden, and throughout the entire house, the overall impression is very beautiful.
Head north towards Huacalera. Several beautiful stretches await you along this route, which runs alongside lakes and passes through picturesque villages and forests. Don’t hesitate to stop along the way, the journey itself is an experience. Stay for two nights in the heart of the Quebrada de Humahuaca, in a charming hotel. Set within a three hectare (7.4 acre) organic farm, the property is in perfect harmony with its environment. The charming guesthouse is run by a French-Argentinian couple who are both artists and travellers. It reflects their passion for the Andean world, their taste for simplicity, and their love of nature.
Optional extra - Visit an artist’s studio and hear about their work, inspired by nature, society and rituals.
From Huacalera, a small town surrounded by rocky landscapes, you quickly reach the Quebrada de Humahuaca, which stretches from village to village. The first village, Purmamarca, is the starting point for hikes to the Hill of Seven Colours. A three kilometre (2 mile) walk takes you to the gorge, which unfolds before you in a rainbow of pink, ochre and green in the afternoon light. Next, head to Maimara, a little further north, which remains one of the most authentic villages in the region. Here you are at the foot of the Quebrada, in a place poetically named the "Paleta del Pintor", or Painter's Palette, a name that suits it perfectly. Standing in front of these varying shades of red sandstone, it’s easy to imagine yourself in a western. The next stop is Tilcara, where small, earth hued houses stretch across a rocky desert surrounded by mountains. Here, besides the natural wonders, there are several sites of historical interest: the Church of the Virgin of the Rosary and St. Francis of Assisi with its cactus roof, the Eduardo Casanova archaeological museum, and finally Pucara, a pre-Inca fortress that is almost 1,000 years old. The last stop is Humahuaca, which sits at nearly 3,000 metres (9,842 feet) above sea level. Its cobbled streets are charming and its colonial allure is undeniable, but its most beautiful sight lies in the mountains, the Serranía del Hornocal, which you can reach by car. If you were left speechless by the Mountain of Seven Colours, the fourteen striking shades of El Hornocal will leave you lost for words. This mountain range unfolding before you looks like a sea of stone, and its slopes form a unique rock formation found nowhere else in the world. Take your time and pause to reflect for a moment before the immensity and beauty of this truly mysterious natural landscape.
Return journey to Salta, then flight to Buenos Aires, where you take a private transfer to your pleasant accommodation in the San Telmo district. Final night in Argentina.
Private transfer to the airport and direct flight back home. Night on board, arrival the following day.
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