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Tunisia - Tunis - Kélibia - Sousse - Tijma - Djerba
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Welcome and assistance with formalities. Collection of the rental car. Three night stay in a freshly renovated and charming old house in the medina of Tunis.. What strikes you first is the clarity, the light, the sense of space and the harmony of the architecture. The facilities and decor highlight these vibrant and light touches of modernity. This is not a museum, this is modern-day Tunisia. And it’s truly lovely. Even the ceramic tiles can't believe it. Your room is comfortable, with a unique spirit. On the rooftop, or across the street, two restaurants serve quintessential Tunisian cuisine. Upstairs, you can enjoy a view over the medina. Downstairs, there is a classically elegant dining room. The hammam offers a wellness experience that the city has perfected and keeps secret.
Already planned - Private tour of the medina. We’re here, so let’s go. You set off with your guide. That's no small luxury when you’re not a long-time resident of Tunis. You need to find your way in this maze, where everything captures your curiosity. There are the shops, of course, but also the cafes, civic and religious institutions, workshops, the sudden bursts of bougainvillea, and even the little alleyways where there is nothing but a few straggly cats. The old Tunis, if you will; or rather, its heart.
A little to the east, you can dive back in, searching for a chechia, a piece of gold or silver jewellery, pine nut tea, a leather or brassware item, or a fragrance. Or you can explore a bit of the modern city: Avenue Bourguiba, where you’ll find the theatre (1902 and 1911) and the Saint Vincent de Paul Cathedral (1897). Those are just examples. Nevertheless, after several years of closure, the reopening of the Bardo Museum - housed in a former Beylical palace - invites you to visit. The art, history and archaeology collections on display here are fabulously rich and rank among the finest in the Mediterranean.
Optional - La Goulette and Marsa by e-bike.
Scheduled - Sidi Bou Said and Carthage in private. You are drawn in by the blue and white charm of Sidi Bou Said, the delightful setting above the Bay of Tunis, and the splendour of Dar El Annabi. At the famous cafe des Nattes, you follow in the footsteps of Georges Bernanos or Simone de Beauvoir. And to be honest, it's still a thrill. A postcard is no match for the real thing. Carthage was destroyed, then rebuilt. Today, the archaeological site, crowned by Saint Louis Cathedral (1890), is mainly Roman. Nevertheless, Punic remains can still be found, such as the residential quarter of Byrsa, traces of the harbours, or the Tophet of Salammbô. This was a ritual cemetery, though its meaning is still debated. The steles, in any case, form a striking funerary landscape. The theatre, the villas with their mosaics, the amphitheatre and the Antonine Baths date back to the Roman period. You will visit with a guide.
Drive to Kélibia. Two-night stay in the city, in a bright and very pleasant hotel. One of the owners, an architect, has struck a splendid balance between Tunisian tradition and contemporary international design. The first floor showcases intricate motifs, decorative detailing, fine woodwork, and layered, interconnected spaces. Upstairs, the atmosphere shifts to clean lines and a more abstract aesthetic. White predominates throughout, complemented by warm, vibrant fabrics and ceramic tiles. The rooms are refined and genuinely inviting,, exuding a very soothing sense of calm. Outside, there are courtyard gardens and a swimming pool. The in-house restaurant serves enticing Tunisian cuisine accompanies by the famous Muscat of Kélibia. A spa is open to guests, featuring professional massage services, a traditional hammam, and a sauna for complete relaxation. The beaches are within easy walking distance.
Kélibia is an ancient city, founded at the end of the 4th century BC by Agathocles, the tyrant of Syracuse. It was successively Punic and then Roman The remains from the Roman period are still clearly visible today. Especially in the bordj. The city later became an important Christian centre.. At the Bardo Museum you can admire a splendid baptistery and funerary mosaics from the 4th to 6th centuries. These works come from the Church of Priest Felix of Demna, just a few kilometres from Kélibia. Nearby stands the major Punic site of Kerkouane, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This exceptional complex - comprising public, civil and religious buildings, as well as private homes - provides an essential complement to the fragmentary remains of Carthage. Kélibia is not only about archaeology - you can still enjoy restaurant seafood and some very beautiful beaches. These have even earned the city the title of Tunisia’s beach volleyball capital. So, bring your energy, and your skills!
Drive to Hergla, about 20 km (12 miles) from Sousse. It’s a small, enchanting fishing port on the Gulf of Hammamet. One of those places where even the cemetery becomes a setting for light and quiet reflection. You then continue to Sousse. Two-night stay in a dar in the medina. One of the most delightful places in Tunisia. Behind white walls accented with touches of lime green, the courtyard is full of charm. The rooms, with their an unusual elongated layout, prove to be entirely comfortable. Each is furnished and decorated with meticulous, sensitive attention to detail. Nothing has been overlooked when it comes to guests’ comfort. Even a subtle touch of playfulness occasionally enlivens the atmosphere. This is particularly pleasant, especially when paired with a such a refined sense of aesthetics Creative cuisine is served in the dining room, while cocktails can be enjoyed at the bar or in the courtyard. Up on the rooftop terrace, breathe in the fresh air in true Tunisian style. Or simply unwind in the pool.
Already planned - Dinner reserved at the restaurant of the dar. After all, you’re here. And it’s delicious.
The visit to the archaeological museum, with its magnificent collection of mosaics - hunting scenes, fish motifs, kinetic Medusa, and more - is a major highlight. Nevertheless, you should not miss visiting the Oqba Ibn Nafi Mosque in Kairouan, a cornerstone of Islam in the Maghreb. It is a remarkable building, rightfully listed as a World Heritage Site. With its striking simplicity, harmonious proportions, and an aura of quiet majesty, it leaves a lasting impression on both worshippers and visitors. The ever-present columns transform the monument into a genuine gallery of this ancient art form — base, shaft, and capital — whose origins date back to Antiquity. The hypostyle prayer hall is particularly impressive, with its chandeliers adorned with delicate glass cups. The minbar, the preacher’s pulpit, is the oldest preserved in Islam. Among the other wonders of this unique city, the Aghlabid pools showcase remarkable hydraulic engineering skills Also accessible from Sousse, the impressive Roman amphitheatre of El Jem reflects the economic importance of Thysdrus in the 3rd century AD. The monument makes you a spectator of venationes — animal fights or stylised hunts — depicted in a series of mosaics.
Drive to the Berber village of Tijma, just north of Matmata, in the Dahar mountains. Night in a troglodyte house. The dwellings, dug into the loess, open onto a circular open-air courtyard via a corridor, the sguifa. Inside, the forms feel enveloping, with whitewashed walls and a layout that is simple yet inviting. The bedding is set on a raised platform. A few antique items serve as decor. Above all, there is a certain atmosphere. The feeling is quite unique. The contrasts of shadow and light play a significant part. You get a subtle sense of retreating from the outside world. These homes were designed not only to shield villagers from the harsh sun, but also to protect them from soldiers’ raids. It feels genuinely restful. The air is pleasantly cool. Meals are taken with other guests at the dining table. The cuisine reflects the setting - simple and authentic.
Drive to Djerba. Two-night stay in Erriadh, in the centre of the island. The entrance porch of the menzel has real character. It opens onto a real hamlet, with five traditional houses gathered together. You wander here as though moving within a small, fragrant labyrinth. The restoration was completed with deep respect for traditional craftsmanship. The hotel conversion was true to the spirit of the place. The rooms are comfortable and truly charming. The white walls highlight the meticulously chosen furniture and objects. The subtly extended arches lend a touch of understated elegance. The tadelakt in the dining room brings real charm, while the kitchen adds the finishing touch. Two courtyards have been turned into swimming pools. Rooftop terraces are perfect for long, sultry evenings.
For centuries, Djerba has watched people arrive and depart — some with generous intentions, others less so. In contrast to this turbulent history, the island has kept a taste for peaceful coexistence. Here, cultures and faiths live side by side: the Turkish mosque, the Catholic church of Saint Joseph, the Ibadi mosques, the Ghriba synagogue. You stroll among orchards, olive groves, palm trees and oleanders. Then on to the beach, where the Mediterranean has the feel of a southern sea. And of course Erriadh is Djerbahood, an open-air street art museum. Every year, graphic designers and visual artists travel from around the world to create unique works on site. Today, nearly 300 pieces are scattered across the village. The fusion of vernacular architecture and contemporary expression is striking. A tribute to every artist. Contemporary art seems to thrive under the sun. And that is very good news indeed.
Return the car at the airport. Direct flight back.
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