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From Delhi to Udaipur Across Rajasthan by train
North India - Rajasthan
On the tracks in Rajasthan
In your logbook
Delhi, your first venture into the city. Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi: impetuous sounds of horns - please horn! - shouts and songs; a maze of alleyways traversed by motorcycles, cows, ox-drawn carts, and zigzagging rickshaws transporting hurried passengers; tangled katras crowded with stalls set directly on the ground. A step aside to get away from the crowd, a small door at the end of an alley leads to a Jain temple, its dome painted with signs of the zodiac, offerings of food and wafts of incense: a peaceful refuge. A taxi to Hauz Khas Village, in the south of the city, and you feel like you have entered a different world and era: an arty village - it feels like being in New York’s East Village. Designer boutiques and concept stores - a concentration of creativity. And bars perched on rooftop terraces, which are the meeting places for hipsters. A short train journey allows you to reachAgra. This is where the Taj Mahal stands, a sublime testament to a man’s devotion to his deceased wife. Further on, in Jaipur,everything is noisy and bustling. A jumble of cows, mopeds and camels. Musk, rose, jasmine and sandalwood, saris and embroidery await you at Bapu and Nehru Bazaar. And the Palace of the Winds, which is in fact just a latticed facade, was built to allow the women of the royal family to watch without being seen. Today, in a curious twist, visitors are admiring it - the jewel of the city - from an outsider's perspective! View from Mehrangarh, the sandstone fortress “built by angels and titans” in Kipling’s words, Jodhpur unfolds at your feet, bathed in blue - the blue that once signified belonging to the Brahmin caste and colours the facades of the city’s houses. Within the fortress walls, enjoy the coolness of the marble, the delicacy of the Persian patterns, the interplay of light and the shimmering of mirrored fragments. Nestled in the heart of the Aravalli hills, Udaipur, the most peaceful and gentle of Rajasthan’s cities, stands on the shores of its five lakes. And overlooking the largest of them all, the City Palace, a towering fortress of marble and granite. Here, as in the other palaces of the princes of Rajasthan, everything is designed to exalt the senses.Itinerary
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Night on board the aircraft, arrival the following day.
Private transfer and overnight stay at a welcoming guest house in the heart of New Delhi that's been reinvented by an Indian-Australian couple in a delightful Anglo-Indian style. Four bohemian-style rooms occupy most of a large house designed as a place for living in and for sharing. A décor with a distinctly European feel, enhanced by pieces of carefully chosen Indian art: blue tones dominate, there are some excellent prints, together with bunches of freshly cut flowers. The big terrace and the glass roof covering the cosy main living area are wonderful, as is the café with its understated cuisine.
Already scheduled - New Delhi with a private guide. Created by the British in the 1930s, the wide avenues and well-kept gardens of this neighbourhood are a testament to colonial power. Take a stroll along the Royal Way, an esplanade that runs all the way to India Gate. Visit Humayun’s tomb, with its Mughal-style dome that inspired the Taj Mahal. A visit to the Qutub Minar is also a must - the 72-metre-high red sandstone tower was built at the beginning of the 13th century, and is adorned with calligraphic verses from the Koran.
Morning transfer to the station and train to Agra (about 1 hour and 40 minutes). A new driver will be at your disposal for the day. Overnight stay in a lovely hotel that has a contemporary feel, but has retained features inspired by traditional India, notably the rounded ceilings. Each room is different and has its own distinctive colour scheme, always using natural tones. It's comfortable and well-kept, right down to the restaurant, which has a modern bistro feel, with black and white chequered floors, retro chairs and marble tables. They serve authentic cuisine, with recipes handed down through childhood memories, all made with fresh, local ingredients. Nearby you'll find lots of bars, cafés and restaurants to tempt you with a wide range of options.
In your itinerary - a private tour of Agra at sunrise The Taj Mahal, a symbol of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan's love for his wife and a masterpiece of Indo-Islamic architecture reveals all its splendour at dawn. The Red Fort, an impressive red sandstone citadel, and the Itmad-Ud-Daulah mausoleum round off this unique cultural panorama.
In the afternoon, transfer to the station and train to Jaipur (about 4 hours). Two night stay in a “dera”, a kind of temporary residence. Your dera is an integral part of the history of Jaipur. Thakur Jait Singh Ji of Mandawa began its construction around 1885, when he came to join the court of the Maharaja of Jaipur. Today, the place is home to a boutique hotel, run by Jait Singh Ji's great-grandson and his family. Here, each suite is unique, and is a tribute to past eras and to the many cultures that have shaped these buildings. All are very spacious. At dinnertime, the table is covered with generous, colourful dishes that you'll be eager to try.
Once again you'll have a private driver to accompany you for your day of exploring. Jaipur is a well-ordered city which was planned before being built. This sense of order is a break from the chaotic urban planning of old Indian cities, but in no way does it detract from Jaipur's charm - quite the opposite in fact: there's so much to explore. As for the colour, it became widespread in the 19th century, when Maharaja Ram Singh II ordered the entire city to be painted in a distinctive shade of terracotta pink in preparation for the visit of Queen Victoria and the Prince of Wales. Even though they never actually came, that pink remained.
Already scheduled: - a bike ride through the city. Exploring the capital of Rajasthan by bicycle is an opportunity to see its monuments in a completely different way - an elegant mix of Mughal and Rajput styles, with a hint of colonial Britain.
À la carte - a city of handicrafts, private experience.
Morning transfer to the station and train to Jodhpur (about 6 hours). Transfer and check in for a two-night stay a hotel set slightly apart from all the hustle and bustle of the Blue City, just behind the citadel walls. The rooms in this 1920s building are spacious, and beautifully decorated with antique furniture, period photographs and Indian fabrics. A swimming pool adds to the attractions of the gardens, and is perfect for cooling off on even the hottest of days. Breakfast is served in the romantic atmosphere of the patio, and in the evening, the hotel serves traditional cuisine.
Meet your driver for the next three days in Rajasthan.
In your itinerary - a private tour of Jodhpur, a city that was founded in the15th century on the edge of the Thar Desert. The labyrinth of narrow streets, in every shade of blue from turquoise to indigo, and the bazaar in the old city (saris, spices, grains) are overlooked by Mehrangarh, a sandstone fortress perched above the city - cool marble, delicate Persian motifs, and glittering mirror work.
Drive to Udaipur. On the way, you'll be able to visit Ranakpur. This small town is the fifth-largest Jain pilgrimage site in the country. Above all it's known for the Adinath temple, one of the largest and most beautiful buildings of its kind in India, with refined decoration much admired by visitors. In total, there are more than 1,400 hand-carved pillars that create the impression of intricate architectural lace, and overall the building seems to radiate a profound sense of harmony.
Two-night stay in Udaipur. Your hotel consists of two 17th-century havelis, town houses that once belonged to a local noble family and have recently been sensitively and tastefully restored. In the communal areas you'll still find period furniture and old photographs, and the rooms are decorated in a style that's typical of India, and particularly of Rajasthan. Most of them open onto a large central courtyard, and some offer a beautiful view of Lake Pichola. The rooftop terrace is the ideal spot for a quiet drink at sunset.
Udaipur, an ancient city with narrow streets lined with white houses, stretches languidly along the shores of its many lakes, and is one of the most appealing cities in the country. Overlooking the largest of the five lakes stands the imposing City Palace. A labyrinth of narrow corridors and tiny staircases, there's also a hanging garden where you can sit facing the pond. Here, everything is designed to delight the senses: the murmur of water, the scent of flowers, and the harmony of the colours. Nearby stands Udaipur’s most important religious building, the Jagdish Temple, dedicated to Vishnu.
In your itinerary - an opportunity to meet and chat with textile artisans, private experience. The artisans of Udaipur have been creating woven, printed and dyed textiles for centuries. The variations in colour, texture and pattern are characteristic of the manufacturing process, and have been passed down from generation to generation, changing very little over the years.
Transfer to the airport and flight to Delhi. Settle into a havelî tucked away among the narrow lanes of the lively Chandni Chowk neighbourhood for your last night. A magnificently sculpted façade, an inner courtyard, arches, columns, jharokha windows, mosaic floors: everything in this beautifully restored hotel testifies to a lavish past.
In your itinerary - private tour of Old Delhi by rickshaw. You'll set off in a motorised rickshaw - a veritable institution in India to explore Old Delhi, a traditional district of the city built around the Jama Masjid mosque. It has three enormous black and white marble domes, and the vast esplanade and large prayer hall can accommodate around 25,000 worshippers. This is also an opportunity to discover other attractions (Red Fort, Town Hall) and places of worship (Gauri Shankar Hindu Temple, Digamber Jain Temple, the Christian Baptist Church, Fatehpuri Mosque). Next, a walk to the biggest spice market in Asia, a true hive of activity bursting with colours and scents, letting yourself be guided through the shops and bazaars of the capital.
Transfer to the airport and international return flight.
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